Southern Legitimacy Statement:
In January, I moved from Summit, a town in north-central New Jersey to Mays Landing, NJ. And already I hear talk from neighbors and townspeople about “that other NJ” up North. I have southern roots. My father was born in Barnstable County, SC, and grew up in Fairfax. When I was both child and teenager, several family vacations were spent driving south to visit his various relatives.
I remember the old farmhouse and its surroundings from my earliest childhood visits: chickens running around my bare feet in the dust, and visits to the feared and hated outhouse where once my mother found a snake curled round the ledge inside. And I remember meeting Dad’s grandmother. She was sitting in a rocking chair by the barn, long white braids hanging down either side of her high cheekbones, Cherokee ancestry clear in her features, as well as in my grandfather’s and various Uncles’ faces. I remember meals in the parlor—Grandpa Harter sitting at the head of the table, his belly bulging over denim overalls and straining his plaid shirt; the torn screen on the door that was swinging open and closed in the hot breeze; and flies settling on the corn and fried chicken–or trapped on the flypaper hanging over the table, and the warm, unpasteurized milk, fresh from the cow.
I remember the drive out into the swamp to Uncle Sam’s log cabin, where Uncle Framp and other uncles and cousins drifted in from the surrounding tangle, coon-skin caps on their heads. During a visit when I was seventeen, Uncle Sam heard I was going to college. He walked into his cabin, then came back out holding an old sock, which he emptied into my hand. I held four tarnished silver dollars and a couple of quarters. “This is to help your education,” he said. “He gave you all he had,” my father said, visibly moved. Yet after that, during the same visit, there was a watermelon seed spitting contest off Uncle Sam’s porch, and I felt embarrassed to take part in it —after all, I was now sixteen, and the whole scene had become alien to me.
And I remember my father’s endless stories of his own childhood: the first time he heard a radio in the Sulkie-Hatchie swamp, and snuck up on the chain-gang; times he and his hound dog Dixie treed an old raccoon; his plowing the farm field behind their old mule; his catching fish in the swamp, then setting up a campfire beside the train tracks and frying those fish to sell to passengers when the train pulled in. And now that he is gone, and there are no more stories, I crave them and wish I’d written all of them down or had him record them. He even said we were descended from Francis Marion, the Swamp Fox—but he had a great imagination, so I wonder about that.
Many years later, after my husband and I had left NJ for eleven years in Santa Fe, and my parents then moved from New Jersey to Texas, I became another kind of southerner, frequently visiting them in Buda, a little town outside of Austin, where country music, fish fries at the firehouse, and an all-pervasive heat filled our days. And writing all this down this morning has had led me to realize that although you can take a girl out of the South, when it’s in her blood, you can’t take the South out of her.